Category — Travel Guide

BACKGROUND
The shores of Martha’s Vineyard are a ring of spectacular beaches. The ones on the south side are open and wild. The north ones are tranquil. The public beach at Menemsha tickles toddler toes. The rip currents at Squibnocket take lives.

Summer beach-going on the Vineyard is as good as it gets. But you’ll need a rich uncle to go bodysurfing in Chilmark. Or else Jim Belushi will shoo you away. That’s because 99% of the Martha’s Vineyard coastline, especially the very best beaches, is private. Strictly off limits. “Let them eat cake!” Belushi shouts, stomping about the white sand stretch between Lucy Vincent and the bend to Stonewall.

This situation dates back to the forties. The 1640’s. Our New World was cold, dark, unkempt, forbidding, and faraway. As unconcerned with beach access as they were with sunbathing, our forefathers acted on a vision to get more people to come here and build things. As a carrot, they gave developers the beaches. It worked! From Boston to New Bedford, Provincetown to Edgartown, Newburyport to Nantucket, maritime activity boomed. John Adams invented the Separation of Powers, Sam Adams agitated for rebellion, George Washington drove the Red Coats from Southie, and the New World became the United States. David McCullough recorded everything, which is great beach reading if you, your sister, or your aunt owns a home in Aquinnah.

UP-ISLAND PUBLIC BEACHES
Moshup Beach (Aquinnah) – located far up-Island on the Vineyard’s spectacular south side. Parking is a short hike from the surf. Drive or take the VTA (bus). Afterwards, check out the Gay Head Cliffs.

Menemsha Beach – the diminutive beach faces the Elizabethan Islands and Mainland and it is unremarkable, but the pre-WW II commercial fishing aura and evening sunsets are precious. Perfect (no waves) for toddlers and youngsters with snorkels and fins. Mobbed in August. Heading back, stop at Chilmark Chocolates.

DOWN-ISLAND PUBLIC BEACHES
South Beach (Katama/Edgartown) – with open ocean and southern California-esque in size and aura, this is where the comely youth culture goes especially, along with everyone else. In summer, big, beautiful, and crowded. With kids, check out Farm Institute at Katama Farm nearby.

Cape Pogue (Chappaquiddick) – truly remote, you have to take a short ferry from Edgartown to Chappie. Cape Pogue’s wide open beach and open ocean and bay are otherworldly. A great expedition for the family—tour the lighthouse! Legendary surfcasting.

State Beach (Oak Bluffs/Edgartown) – a long stretch of beach facing the northeast (no waves) great for family and kids. Giant Sengekontacket Pond parallels the beach across the street. Throngs of teens jump off the big bridge (“Jaws”).

Owen Park (Vineyard Haven) – quaint park and dock a stone’s throw by the ferry as you head to West Chop (tony and private, sorry). Harbor setting, low key, a great place to take the dog for a run.

SPECTACULAR PRIVATE BEACHES
In rough order of greatness. Bribe somebody.

1. Squibnocket at Chilmark
2. Lucy Vincent at Chilmark
3. Stonewall at Chilmark
4. Great Rock Bight at Chilmark
5. Philbin at Aquinnah
6. West Chop at Vineyard Haven
7. Lambert’s Cove at West Tisbury